9/6/2023 0 Comments Piezo ignitor troubleshooting![]() Wire the other lead of the multimeter to the hot side of the test cord. Using a test power cord with a switch, wire the ignitor blue lead to one of the multimeter leads.Bend the copper ignitor clips or springs until the clip ends are ½” apart.If the difference between electrode-to-ground is within 10%, proceed with the input current test.If the difference in the electrode-to-ground resistance is more than 10%, the secondary coil may be failing.The secondary coils are good if the difference between the two readings is less than 10%.Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance from electrode to ground for each of the electrodes (Figure 1 and 2).Release the ignitor plate hold down screws or clips.If spark does not jump the gap, or if the spark jumps intermittently, ignitor is defective and should be replaced.If spark occurs, proceed the secondary coil test below.Check for spark across the ignitor clip ends (see Figure 1).Turn on the test power cord switch to power the ignitor.Connect a test power cord with a switch to the ignitor leads in the burner junction box.Bend the copper ignitor clips until the clip ends are from 5/8” to ¾” apart (see figure 1).Release the ignitor hold down screws or clips.Disconnect the ignitor wires in the burner junction box.Turn off the power to the burner/appliance.It is important that all three of these tests be performed. The following is a step by step procedure to perform these tests. The third test consists of an input current test. The second test is a secondary coil resistance test. The first test should be the ignitor spark test. The burners are quite easy to remove and reinstall.This test procedure consists of three tests. We recommend only using a venturi tube cleaner to clean these out. Occasionally, insects can crawl inside the venturi tube of the burners and block the flow of fuel into the burner tube itself. A spark without ignition can also mean there is a problem within the burners. If you’re getting a spark but no ignition check to see if the electrodes are misaligned, if they aren’t positioned above, or beside the burner properly, they will not ignite with the fuel. Now for the unfun and most confusing method. The fix for this is as simple as drying the wet components or opening a beer and waiting it out. Additionally, if you’re not getting any spark, the issue could be humidity or a wet barbecue. Luckily, barbecue ignitors are made to be easy to remove and install, so if any wires are damaged it is quite easy to replace them. Since we’ve already taken some pieces out of the barbecue in diagnosing the earlier components, everything should be visible. If any are loose or look like they are damaged, swap them out. So, starting at the ignitor or ignitor button, to the module (if applicable), to the electrode, follow those wires. Still no click? There’s one more place to check, and this involves following the chain of command. ![]() With that being said, I think you would have to engage in quite a lot of, and quite a sudden amount of, mechanical excitation to ignite your barbecue with your bones, so we’ll file that one under “fun facts” for now. When mechanical stress or pressure (like pushing the button of your barbecue ignitor) is applied to that material, an electrical spark is generated, this is called piezoelectricity and it is also produced within the bones of our bodies when we apply mechanical stress or excitation to our bodies.
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